Comment structurer un journal ?

 
1. Tout le monde n'a pas eu la chance d'avoir été invité, un jour, à tenir son journal, et tout le monde n'a pas eu le bonheur de voir celui du physico-chimiste britannique Michael Faraday : http://www.faradaysdiary.com/.
C'est un exemple merveilleux pour ce qui concerne la recherche scientifique et on aurait intérêt à s'en inspirer. 

2. Pour autant, pour considérer la question du journal personnel, du "cahier de laboratoire", on serait avisé de partir des trois maîtres mots des laboratoires de chimie, qui sont sécurité, qualité, traçabilité. 

3. Oui, dans nos laboratoires, la sécurité prime. Cela signifie évidemment beaucoup de soin, beaucoup de connaissances et beaucoup d'attention, mais ce n'est pas l'objet de ce billet que de discuter de cela. Je préfère ici parler de qualité et de traçabilité. 

4. On pourrait penser qu'un journal ne vise que la la traçabilité, gardant trace de tout ce que l'on a fait dans la journée, mais en réalité, avec un peu d'intelligence, cette traçabilité rejaillit considérablement sur la qualité. 

5. Je fais cette observation, car ayant d'abord admiré que des collègues aient demandé à des étudiants d'avoir un journal pour consigner le résultat de séances de travaux pratiques, j'ai constaté, à  l'analyse, que ces journaux, qui s'apparentent donc à des journaux de bord comme je l'ai déjà dit dans un autre billet (https://hervethis.blogspot.com/2019/08/un-journal-surtout-un-journal-et-des.html), manquaient de structure. Et, comme souvent, c'est la structure qui nous pousse à faire mieux. 

6. Voici en tout cas la structure que nous utilisons dans mon groupe de recherche. 

 

On distingue d'abord l'administration, la communication et le travail.
Certains des amis de notre groupe s'étonnent, par exemple, que je mentionne la rédaction d'articles dans la partie de communication plutôt que dans du travail, car,  après tout,  n'est-ce pas aussi du travail que de rédiger des articles ? Oui, mais pour ce qui me concerne, le travail est le travail scientifique, alors que rédactions d'articles ou  conférences sont  de  la communication. D'ailleurs, la même question vaut pour l'administration, puisque c'est dans cette case là que j'y mets personnellement le remplissage de notre spectroscope de résonance magnétique nucléaire avec de l'azote liquide : bien sûr, cela fait partie de mon travail, mais en réalité, c'est une sorte d'intendance et non pas mon travail scientifique stricto sensu. 

Plus en détail : 

 

8. Il y a bien des cases passionnantes dans notre moule vide, mais la section la plus importante est certainement celle qui évoque "ce qui a coincé", des "symptômes", car c'est là que nous avons une chance de devenir demain plus intelligent qu'aujourd'hui, en nous entraînant à prendre du recul, à analyser, à soliloquer, et, notamment, à ne pas répéter inlassablement les mêmes erreurs. Une section d'autant plus importante que, même si nous ne parvenons pas à trouver la solution à la question posée, elle est posée... et l'expérience montre que, souvent, la solution vient pendant la nuit (j'ai oublié de signaler que cette section est remplie le soir). 

9. Bref, j'invite mes collègues à bien diffuser ce modèle vide, qui peut être rempli chaque jour. Ou, s'ils le souhaitent, à m'en proposer des améliorations ! Après tout, ne suis-je pas sans cesse à chercher à "tendre avec efforts vers l'infaillibilité sans y prétendre" ?

Le 6 septembre : la finale du 12e concours de cuisine note à note

 
Le vendredi 6 septembre matin, nous aurons la finale du concours de cuisine note à note. Nous en sommes au 12e concours, et 30 à 40 concurrents ont soumis des recettes sur le thème de l'énergie. 

Nos concurrents sont de tous les pays. Ce sont souvent des étudiants du Master International Food Innovation and Product Design, mais pas seulement. 

Il est amusant d'observer que leurs propositions sont soit des recettes qui ont été faites avec un minimum d'énergie, soit des recettes qui ont été faites avec des systèmes à bon rendement énergétique, tel que le four à micro-ondes, soit des recettes métaphoriques, c'est-à-dire qui représentent le soleil, l'énergie nucléaire, la durabilité, et cetera. 

Pour ce concours, nous avons un jury de chefs prestigieux tel que Jean-Pierre Lepelletier, Pierre Dominique Céciillon ou Patrick Terrien, de l'Association  Toque blanche internationale,  ou encore Philippe Clergue et Éric Briffard de l'Institut Cordon bleu. . Nous avons aussi des soutiens tels que la société Louis-François, la revue Pour la science, ou  KitchenLab, qui, aujourd'hui, vend des composés odorants très originaux.
 

C'est la 12e édition de ce concours de cuisine de synthèse, ou cuisine note à note... mais quelle est la différence entre ces deux terminologies ? La première désigne la technique, et la seconde  le style artistique.
Cuisine de synthèse désigne le type de technique, à savoir confectionner des plats à partir de composés aussi purs que possible : eau, sucres lents ou rapides, protéines, lipides, et cetera.
Avec cela on peut faire mille choses,  mais on voit bien apparaître un nouveau style et c'est ce style qui maintenant prend le nom de cuisine note à note. En anglais, cela devient synthetic cooking, pour la technique,  et note by note cuisine pour le style.

Rendez vous le 6, en présentiel ou en visio !

Vegan egg wash ?

 I am interviewed about  the possibility of making vegan egg wash, and here is my answer  : 

Did you see the results from the Seminar of molecular gastronomy... about egg wash (June 2023)?  It is here   : https://icmpg.hub.inrae.fr/travaux-en-francais/seminaires

and here

 https://seafile.agroparistech.fr/d/6d61863c82f34fb59e38/?p=%2F2022%202023&mode=list 

 

Later on (this was published in another report), I understood that in order to make a golden appearance, you need (1) brilliancy and (2) yellow. 

For brilliancy, any layer that would be very smooth can be used (proteins in water, for example, but also oil, etc.). And for yellow, you use some yellow color (egg yolk or food colorant). 

 

 

Qu'est-ce qu'une thèse ?

 Qu'est-ce qu'une thèse ? La « vraie » acception du mot "thèse" est :  une proposition ou théorie que l'on tient pour vraie et que l'on soutient par une argumentation pour la défendre contre d'éventuelles objections.
Les ministres ont beau édicter des lois qui encadrent les moments de recherche nommés thèse, il n'en restera pas moins que l'on aura raison de se raccrocher à la définition que j'ai rappelée plus haut. Soit on a une idée initiale que l'on passe trois ans à étayer, soit on obtient une telle idée après trois ans de travail, peu importe. Ce qui compte, c'est que l'on fasse état d'un travail, sous la forme d'une « thèse que l'on soutient ».
Tout en découle naturellement : ayant cette idée, il s'agira de montrer en quoi les travaux l'ont étayée, par exemple. Cela se fera par écrit, et par oral.
Par écrit, tout d'abord : le document de thèse est une façon de démontrer à l'Université que l'impétrant est capable d'accéder à l'enseignement supérieur, qu'il sait écrire un livre.
Par oral : il s'agit cette fois de faire une « leçon », en soutenant oralement la thèse, c'est-à-dire en la présentant clairement, et en sachant répondre aux questions que le jury posera.

Guidance

I get a message asking me about guidance. 

And here is my answer :

In order to answer the question properly, I need to start by explaining things clearly:
1. first of all I propose to make a distinction between
- technology,
- technology
- science (of nature)

2. secondly, I propose to make a clear distinction between molecular and physical gastronomy (on more simply molecular gastronomy = science), on the one hand, and molecular cooking or cuisine on the other hand (technique) ; without forgetting synthetic that I also invented, also with the name note-by-note cuisine (also technique).

Indeed, if you have our Handbook of MG, this is said in the introduction.

By the way, as far as "sciences" are concerned, I am going to talk about them now by implying "sciences of nature", and not sciences of the human or of society.

Let us begin by returning to the first of the two distinctions: culinary activity is a technical activity that certainly has an artistic and a social component; but producing a dish is a technical gesture.

This is therefore very different from a scientific activity, in the sense of the natural sciences, which must use the "scientific method" to explore the mechanisms of phenomena.
I add without waiting that the natural sciences are not concerned by applications, especially technical applications.

In the middle, between technique and science, there is technology, the work of the engineer, who uses the results of the natural sciences to improve the technique. In English, we sometimes speak of technology and sometimes of engineering.

To arrive at the second distinction now, there is  :
- Molecular gastronomy, whose real name is molecular  and physical gastronomy, and which is science (physics, chemistry, biology...), without taking care of applications, only exploring the mechanisms of phenomena.
- Molecular cooking/cuisine is a technique: it is cooking renovated by the contributions of molecular gastronomy or by the introduction of materials from laboratories.
- these two (molecular gastronomy, on the one hand, and molecular cooking, on the other hand) differ from synthetic cooking, or note-by-note cooking, for which the question is no longer that of materials but of ingredients: instead of cooking with carrots, turnips, meat or fish, one uses pure compounds and builds dishes.

 

 

All that being said, I can now answer the email in details, and I  take it sentence by sentence

First, you tell me that you are a student "looking for a space in the vast research field of molecular gastronomy": if the term molecular gastronomy is used in your sentence, then it means that you would like to do scientific research.

You add that your background is not in cooking but in science and indeed, to do molecular gastronomy, you need to have a scientific background and certainly not a culinary, technical background.

Then you tell me that for the last 10 years you have been interested in coffee, as a consultant about fermentation methods for example: this is an exciting work; a technological work for sure, not scientific, but very interesting... and I take the opportunity to point out that in my laboratory, there was a thesis on coffee roasting: the PhD candidate, because she was heading towards the industry... and me because the preparation of coffee is accompanied by many phenomena that I wanted to explore.

Then you tell me that food and cooking are one of your passions and you tell me again that you imagine a transition to molecular gastronomy, and you ask me whether it is too late when you are 30 years old:  you might be interested to know that until I was 50, I had two lives, one in science publishing, and the other in the laboratory; I gave up science publishing at age 50 to go full time to do science in the laboratory, which I loved above all else.

By the way, I should add that even though I invent a lot of things, I do it in spite of myself, and I'm not proud of it. More exactly, if I were to be proud of something, it would only be my discoveries, and not my inventions.
Besides, for me, cooking is only a kind of pretext: it is in cooking that we see phenomena that we explore scientifically afterwards. And there is no technology involved.

I also want to point out that it is in the food industry in the broad sense that there are both jobs and decent salaries.
I understand that in your country, many of my colleagues are doing both research, which is more technological, and teaching, as well, than scientific research.

And I refer you to one of my blog posts that shows how constant the confusion is: https://hervethis.blogspot.com/2018/09/la-science-des-aliments-nest-pas-la.html
In fact, a lot of what is called food science is actually food technology and not food science.
It is interesting to observe, for example, that there are hundreds or even thousands of articles devoted to tea or coffee, but an excessively small number (if any) are concerned with the mechanism of the phenomena, i.e., the science.
The majority of the articles are interested in the composition of tea or coffee, in the ingredients, in the processes, but not in the science.

Then you mention an intention to collaborate with a starred restaurant: obviously, it will be about technology or technique and not science unless it is about communicating new, scientific information, in which case it will be about training or teaching but still not science.

By the way, one of the PhD in my lab created a company for selling consultancy (at that time, in molecular cooking), and this looks like what you intend to do. Her education in molecular gastronomy was very useful for her to do this job.

You tell me that this restaurant wants to create a "research" and "innovation" group: I warn you against using the word "research" because one can do scientific research or technological research... or artistic research; it is always research but it is not always science (= scientific research).
In short, the word research is not synonymous with science, and in any case, if the creation of such a center is at stake, then it is obviously technology or artistic research that is involved.


And here I have done the best I can. I hope that this was useful 

kind regards

Questions about custard/ Questions à propos de crème anglaise

Pour la version en français : 

https://scilogs.fr/vivelaconnaissance/on-minterroge-a-propos-de-creme-anglaise/

 

This afternoon, a salvo of questions which are, in fact, all about cooking custards.
I have illustrated and (I hope) clear and detailed explanations in Mon histoire de cuisine (Belin, Paris), but here is something to understand.





The message:

I know that white starts to coagulate at 62°C, yellow at 68°C (I read your article on Pierre Gagnaire's website), but I think that some molecules coagulate at other temperatures; am I wrong?
A related question: why does it say to cook the custard at 85°C? Could it be for pasteurisation purposes? And why does it slice at boiling point and not at 85°C?
Is it possible to catch up with a turned custard to regain the emulsion? Will this have any effect on the molecular structure or texture?
I observed that the custard was more liquid after being "blended". Is this a destruction of the molecular structure during blending?



And my answer, question by question


Here, let's start with :

I know that the white starts to coagulate at 62°C, the yellow at 68°C (I read your article on Pierre Gagnaire's website), but I think that some molecules coagulate at other temperatures; am I wrong?


One can of course answer point by point to this first question, and I will do so, but I will also take it up differently, because I think one can be clearer.

First, the poor answer, point by point:
Yes, the egg white starts to coagulate at around 62°C.
Yes, egg yolk starts to coagulate at around 68°C.
And yes, some egg molecules coagulate at temperatures other than the two above.
But first I observe that the molecules that coagulate, in the white or in the yolk, are more precisely proteins. Each protein, each kind of protein-like molecule) coagulates at a particular temperature.

Now, as I said before, I know that the answer is not correctly given, that the explanation is not clear, so I'll take it up now.

Let's consider the egg white, since the yolk behaves in principle like it, but in a slightly more complicated way.
The egg white is 90% water and 10% protein, but several kinds of protein.
Each protein coagulates at a particular temperature.
And it is indeed at 61.8°C that the first protein in the white coagulates; the others remain in the form of balls in the white, barely caught by the coagulation of this first coagulating protein (we agree: when we say "a protein coagulates", it means that many molecules of the same type of protein "uncoil" and form a large network that traps the liquid in which they were dissolved).
Then, when the temperature is increased, a second protein coagulates, which reinforces the gel that is the coagulated blank. At this stage, there are two "nets" which trap the other molecules, and it is very soft.
And when the temperature is increased further, a third protein coagulates, reinforcing the gel that is the coagulated white, then a fourth coagulation will come, and so on, the coagulated white becoming harder and harder, until it becomes rubbery.

The same applies to the egg yolk, but with different proteins, which have different coagulation temperatures.


The rest almost follows from this


A related question: why do we say to cook custard at 85°C? Could it be for pasteurisation purposes? And why does it boil and not boil at 85°C?

First of all, let's observe that you can cook custard at any temperature you want, and I don't know where my interlocutor is getting it from: 85°C.
I am not a specialist in microbiological issues, but I know that there is above all the question of the "time-temperature couple". For example, if you cook a whole egg, in its shell, at 59°C for 15 minutes, you destroy salmonella; when you cook at a temperature higher than 59°C, you can reduce the time needed for microbiological sanitation. On the other hand, care must be taken not to go too low, because when micro-organisms are at a high but not lethal temperature, they proliferate.
This is why I so often warn my cooking friends against keeping temperatures too low for a long time.

That said, yes, you can make a custard froth when you bring it to high temperature... For a reason that I will now explain, by saying first of all that a custard that is macroscopically successful, i.e. visible to the naked eye, is actually microscopically frothy.
And I would add that, contrary to what has often been wrongly taught, a custard is not an emulsion but a suspension: it is not like in a mayonnaise, where the stacking

See also : 

Science and sciences of nature: objects of confusion

 
Science and science of nature: objects of confusion
H.T.:
"The natural sciences seek the mechanisms of phenomena by a very codified method, which relies only on the handling of mathematics, equations, while the kitchen is the activity of production of food seeking to make "good". The reason for the confusion between "science of cooking" and natural sciences? The word "science" has often been used in the sense of "knowledge", which is much broader than the meaning retained by the natural sciences.

Can cooking be "scientific?"
H.T.:
"Contrary to what is sometimes believed because of faulty statements by great cooks of the past, cooking will never be scientific, in the sense of the natural sciences such as physics, biology... On the other hand, it is most certainly a knowledge! Better still, I propose to think that the knowledge of professional cooks cannot be reduced to the knowledge of amateurs, even when they cook every day at home. Cooking is a very specific profession, where technique, hygiene, economics, history, etc. have an essential role, which home cooks do not have to worry about in the same way."

What about the elders?
H.T:
"Lent refers to science...but what science? If it is the "science of cooking", in the sense of knowing, why not, although Menon speaks, before Lent, of "quintessence of sauces". On the other hand, if the science evoked is a science of nature, then Lent is mistaken: cooking will never be a science of nature. Before him, natural sciences, practiced by scientists (of nature: we used to talk about "natural philosophy"), have explored cooking. For example chemists or pharmacists like Jean Darcet (1724-1801), as early as the 18th century. That said, to understand why cooking will never be a science of nature, one must know what exactly a science of nature is. It is not simply a specific activity, as is often believed, but an entirely "speculative" activity (Louis Pasteur distinguished between natural sciences and the applications of these sciences). The natural sciences have an objective which is quite different from the production of food: it is a question of understanding the mechanisms of phenomena. And this particular research is done by a very particular method as well, which consists in: (1) identifying a phenomenon; (2) characterizing it quantitatively; (3) gathering the data into quantitative "laws", that is, into equations; (4) looking for theories quantitatively compatible with laws; (5) looking for consequences of the theories in order to refute them, again quantitatively. This is an entirely different activity from cooking, whether the latter is precise or not. And cooking will never be this activity.
Let's move on, and read Lent, quoted: "Cooking also wants to be a science". What does this mean? A science is either a knowledge or a very particular activity, which seeks the mechanisms of phenomena by the implementation of a method which owes everything to numbers and to the refutation of theories. As cooking is the preparation of food, it is therefore not a science of nature, and this will never be the case! The meaning retained by Carême is therefore necessarily: a knowledge. And yes, the culinary activity is full of technical knowledge. In other words, since Lent uses the meaning "knowledge", his statement is obvious.
Then, when Lent indicates: "Culinary science is more salubrious to the health of men than all the doctrines of those who prolong diseases by speculation", it is indeed, again, the meaning of knowledge that he retains.
Urbain Dubois, Emile Bernard, Jules Gouffé or Joseph Favre pursue the idea, but when they say they use precise measurements, they do not make science of nature for all that, because production, on the one hand, and the research of mechanisms, on the other hand, have nothing in common. One produces, while the other analyzes. It is worthwhile to reread Louis Pasteur, who explained the differences well.
For Favre, he evokes a "scientific cuisine", which would be, of all the sciences, the one that focuses on "the art of preparing food well". Scientific cooking? If this is the meaning of "knowledge", then scientific cooking is a pleonasm, like going up and down; but if the meaning is scientific, then Favre is wrong on principle. Besides, it is not the fact of being precise that makes an activity a science of nature; a precise cuisine is a precise technical activity, which, moreover, is doubled with an artistic and a social component.
Hervé This: "cooking will never be scientific

Even the great Escoffier...

H.T :
Let's move on to this quote from Escoffier: "Cooking, without ceasing to be an art, will become scientific and will have to submit its formulas, which are still too often empirical, to a method and a precision that will leave nothing to chance". I take issue with this proposition, which is either false or tautological. Cooking will never become scientific, in the sense of the natural sciences, because, I repeat, cooking is a production, and not a research of the mechanisms of phenomena. But we have said it enough. I propose now to introduce a new distinction, between technique, technology, and science (of nature).
Cooking, since it is a production of food, will always be a technical activity... but it will always have an essential artistic component, and is therefore absolutely similar to painting, literature, music... In cooking, one wants to make "good"; and good is "beautiful to eat". Yes, you need to have the technique to achieve this, but the artistic choice is preponderant. Cooking consists in choosing the ingredients, their quantities, the processes used to achieve a taste, which must be good. You have to be a good technician to be a good artist. And I propose to distinguish two cuisines: the artisan's cuisine and the artist's cuisine. Not to mention the social component of cooking, but that would take us too far. On principle, cooking can never become scientific, otherwise it would no longer be an activity of producing food, but a science, which would then no longer be cooking.
We must also discuss the question of technology, which is either technical reflection or the application of the results of natural sciences. Cooking is the production of food. It is not forbidden to have a technological reasoning, upstream of the act of cooking, but technique is not the same as technology. And, as said before, natural sciences are not the same as their application. An engineer, a technologist, is not a scientist (of nature).

A little detour through molecular cooking...
H.T. :
Molecular cooking is a technological activity (not scientific in the sense of the natural sciences): Jean-Pierre Poulain proposes that the expression "molecular cooking" designates the application of modern chemical and physical knowledge to cooking. However, since I was the one who introduced the term "molecular cuisine", I can testify that this is not perfectly accurate. In fact, I defined molecular cuisine as the form of cooking that uses renovated utensils (as opposed to those of Paul Bocuse, in La Cuisine du Marché, published in 1976). Going from utensils to the application of knowledge, there is not much difference, but I propose to keep my definition rather than that of J.-P. Poulain.
And since molecular cooking was the application of a particular science of nature, which analyzes culinary processes, a name was needed to designate this science which seeks to understand why sautéed meats turn brown, why soufflés inflate... This science of nature, we named it molecular gastronomy, in 1988, and the term gastronomy was chosen wisely, because it does not mean "ceremonial cooking", contrary to what many believe, but "reasoned knowledge of what relates to food". For the rest of time, there will be cooking, the activity of producing food, which will never be a science of nature, and molecular gastronomy, a science of nature, which will never produce food.

Edouard de Pomiane introduced the word gastrotechnics at the beginning of the 20th century, but I have analyzed the chimerical nature of the proposal: as a microbiologist, he confused technique, technology and science of nature (in addition to publishing many errors in physics and chemistry).

... and cooking Note to note.
H.T. :
All this being said, having hopefully separated natural science and knowledge, molecular gastronomy and cooking, we must discuss a sentence I said during my conference in Strasbourg, which takes on another meaning when taken out of context. Yes, cooking will only evolve if cooks make it evolve. I can make all the proposals for innovations I want, but cooking will only change if these innovations are implemented. Better yet, we must continue the tireless work of explanation, presentation, and collaboration so that the culinary world will take hold of the new techniques proposed, especially in note-to-note cooking. This being the case, I maintain that the natural sciences, and in particular molecular gastronomy, have much to contribute to cooking. For "note-to-note cooking", this cooking that uses c

The table of content of the Handbook of molecular gastronomy

 Here is the table of content, for our wonderful Handbook of molecular gastronomy : 

Page 1 of 406
1 Molecular Gastronomy
2 Scientific foundations and applications
3Page 2 of 406
1 Handbook
of Molecular Gastronomy
2 Scientific Foundations and Culinary Applications
3 Edited by
4 Róisín
5 vo
Burke, Alan Kelly, Christophe Lavelle and Hervé This
Kientza
6 CRC Press
7 Boca Raton and London
8Page 3 of 406
1 First edition published 2021
2 by CRC Press
3 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742
4 and by CRC Press
5 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon, OX14 4RN
6 © 2021 Taylor & Francis Group, LLC
7 CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, LLC
8 The right of Róisín Burke, Alan Kelly, Christophe Lavelle and Hervé This vo Kientza to be identified
9 as the authors of the editorial material, and of the authors for their individual chapters, has been
10 asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
11 Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and
12 publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or the consequences of their use.
13 The authors and publishers have attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material reproduced in
14 this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been
15 obtained. If any copyright material has not been acknowledged please write and let us know so we may
16 rectify in any future reprint.
17 Except as permitted under U.S. Copyright Law, no part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced,
18 transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or
19 hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage
20 or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers.
21 For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, access www.copyright.com
22 or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923,Page 4 of 406
1 978-750-8400. For works that are not available on CCC please contact
2 mpkbookspermissions@tandf.co.uk
3 Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks and are
4 used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe.
5 Library of Congress Cataloging - in - Publication Data
6 [Insert LoC Data here when available]
7 ISBN: 978-1-4665-9478-4 (hbk)
8 ISBN: 978-0-429-16870-3 (ebk)
9 Typeset in Times
10 by Newgen Publishing UK
11Page 5 of 406

1 TABLE
OF CONTENTS
2 Foreword
3 Introduction
4 About the Editors
5 Contributors
6 Part
I SCIENCE
7 Acids. Acids in foods and perception of sourness
8
Christian Salles
9 Anthocyanins. Anthocyanins in food
10
Véronique Cheynier
11 Alcoholic Beverages: Production, Trends, Innovations
12
Konstantin Bellut, Kieran M. Lynch, Elke K. Arendt
13 Ash. Ash in the kitchen
14 Marta Ghebremedhin, Bhagyashri Joshi, Andreas Rieger, Christine
15 Schreiber, Thomas A. Vilgis
16 Baking. Laminated bakery products
17
Roxane Detry, Christophe Blecker and Sabine Danthine
18 Baking. Chemical Leaveners
19
Linda A. Luck
20 Baking. Injera - The Multi-Eyed Flat BreadPage 6 of 406
1
Mahelet Girma, Sumaya M. Abdullahi, Benjamin L. Stottrup
2 Baking. Viennoiserie - Laminated pastry production
3
James A. Griffin
4 Baking. How does starch gelatinization influence texture?
5
Anaïs Lavoisier
6 Baking. Sourdough Bread
7
Mark Traynor
8 Barbecue. The chemistry behind cooking on a barbecue
9
Florent Allais
10 Bioactivity. Bioactivity and its measurement
11
Hervé This vo Kientza
12 Browning. The glycation and Maillard reactions: major non enzymatic
13 browning reactions in food
14 Frederic J. Tessier
15 Canning. Appert and food canning
16
Jean-Christophe Augustin
17 Capillarity. Capillarity in action
18
Hervé This vo Kientza
19 Champagne. Champagne tasting from a scientific perspectivePage 7 of 406
1 Gérard Liger-Belair, Clara Cilindre, Daniel Cordier, Guillaume
2 Polidori, Fabien Beaumont, Thomas Séon
3 Chantillies. The cousins of whipped cream: “Chantillys”
4
Hervé This vo Kientza
5 Cheese. Hot culinary uses of cheese
6
Sébastien Roustel, John A. Hannon
7 Chocolate. Chocolates from the world, simple physics, complex flavour
8
Bhagyashri L Joshi, Sarah Gindra, Thomas A. Vilgis
9 Chocolate. Oral processing of chocolate: successive interplay of sensory and
10 physicochemical parameters
11 Thomas Vilgis
12 Coffee. Coffee preparation: from roasted beans to beverage
13
Laura Febvay, Hervé This vo Kientza
14 Colour. Natural pigments in foods and their technical uses
15
Juan Valverde
16 Cooking. Cooking
17
Hervé This vo Kientza
18 Cooking. Culinary precisions and robustness of recipes
19
Hervé This vo Kientza
20 Cryogenics. Cryogenics in the kitchenPage 8 of 406
1
Peter Barham
2 Dairy. Milk gels – a gastrophysics view
3 Judith Hege, Marta Ghebremedhin, Bhagyashri Joshi, Christine
4 Schreiber, H.-C. Gill, Thomas A. Vilgis
5 Dairy. Culinary uses of milk, butter and ice cream
6
Alan L. Kelly and David S. Waldron
7 Dairy. Ginger milk curd
8
Martin Lersch
9 Dehydration. Dehydration
10
José M. Aguilera
11 Dispersed Systems Formalism (DSF)
12
Hervé This vo Kientza
13 Distillation. The behaviour of volatile compounds during distillation of
14 hydro-alcoholic solutions and during hydro-distillation
15 Martine Esteban-Decloux
16 Eggs. Let us have an egg
17
Hervé This vo Kientza
18 Emulsions. Emulsified systems in food
19 Markus Ketomäki, Trivikram Nallamilli, Christine Schreiber and
20 Thomas A. VilgisPage 9 of 406
1 Emulsions. Ostwald Ripening and disproportionation in practice
2
Hervé This vo Kientza
3 Emulsions. Lecithin
4
Elzbieta Kozakiewicz, Daniel Cossuta
5 Emulsions. Emulsions and surfactants in the kitchen
6
Hervé This vo Kientza
7 Essential oils. Essential oils.
8
Eric Angelini, Laure Dziuba
9 Essential oils. How to safely use essential oils
10
Eric Angelini, Laure Dziuba
11 Evaporation
12
Hervé This vo Kientza
13 Expansion
14
Hervé This vo Kientza
15 Fats and oils. Physicochemical properties of edible oils and fats
16
S. Danthine
17 Fats and oils. From fat droplets in plant seeds to novel foods
18
Juan C. Zambrano, Behic Mert, Thomas A. Vilgis
19 Fats and oils. Oxidation of dietary lipids
20
Luc EveleighPage 10 of 406
1 Fats and oils. Extra virgin olive oil - molecular keys for traditional and
2 modern Mediterranean gastronomy
3 Raffaele Sacchi.
4 Fermentation. Kimchi
5
Weon-Sun Shin
6 Fermentation. Fermenting Flavours with Yeast
7
Angela Coral Medina and John P. Morrissey
8 Fermentation. A short scientific and culinary introduction to kefir
9
Christophe Lavelle and Jean-Baptiste Boulé
10 Filtration. Filtration membranes for food processing and fractionation
11
Marie-Laure Lameloise
12 Food matrix. Food matrices and matrix effect in the kitchen
13
José Miguel Aguilera and Hervé This vo Kientza
14 Food pairing. “Food pairing” - is it really about science?
15
Hervé This vo Kientza and Christophe Lavelle
16 Freeze-Drying
17
Yrjö H. Roos
18 Foams. Pickering edible oil foam: toward new food products
19
20 Frying
A-L. FameauPage 11 of 406
1
Franco Pedreschi
2 Gastrophysics. a new scientific approach to eating
3
Charles Spence
4 Gels
5
Hervé This vo Kientza
6 Heat transfer. Heat transfer in culinary sciences
7
Denis Flick
8 Hydrocolloids. Hydrocolloid usages as gelling and emulsifying agents for
9
10
culinary and industrial applications
Rachel Edwards-Stuart and Reine Barbar
11 Imaging. Imaging foodstuff and products of culinary transformations
12 Mathias Porsmose Clausen, Morten Christensen, and Ole G.
13 Mouritsen
14 Minerals. Mineral ions and cooking
15
Christian Salles
16 Meat. Meat tenderness and the impact of cooking
17
Jean-François Hocquette and Alain Kondjoyan
18 Meat. Heat Transfer in Meat
19
Douglas Baldwin
20 Microwaves. Microwave heating and modern cuisinePage 12 of 406
1
Alan L. Kelly and Hervé This vo Kientza
2 Meat. Reduction of nitrate and nitrite salts in meat products: What are the
3 consequences and possible solutions?
4 Régine Talon, Sabine Leroy
5 Osmosis. Osmosis in the kitchen
6
Hervé This vo Kientza
7 Pasta. Durum wheat proteins: a key macronutrient for pasta qualities
8
Martin Coline, Morel Marie Hélène and Cuq Bernard
9 Pasteurisation. Pasteurization in the kitchen
10
Gabriela Precup, Dan-Cristian Vodnar
11 Plating. The science of plating
12
Charles Spence
13 Proteins. Proteins and proteases
14
Linda A. Luck, Alan L. Kelly
15 Puddings. The secret of the rice pudding
16
Martin Lersch
17 Roasting
18
Laura Febvay, Hervé This vo Kientza
19 Salt. When should salt be added to meat being grilled?
20
Hervé This vo Kientza, Marie-Paule Pardo, Rolande OllitraultPage 13 of 406
1 Sauces
2
Hervé This vo Kientza
3 Sauces. Hollandaise sauce
4
Guro Helgesdotter Rognså
5 Sauces. The underside of applesauce
6
Cassandre Leverrier
7 Seaweeds. Phycogastronomy: the culinary science of seaweeds
8
Ole G. Mouritsen
9 Size reduction
10
José M. Aguilera
11 Smoked foods
12
Jane K. Parker, Alice Pontin
13 Sous Vide Cooking
14
Douglas Baldwin
15 Spherification
16
Linda A. Luck
17 Squid. Gastrophysics of squid: from gastronomy to science and back again
18 Ole G. Mouritsen, Charlotte Vinther Schmidt, Peter Lionet Faxholm,
19 and Mathias Porsmose ClausenPage 14 of 406
1 Sugars. Soft caramel and sucre à la crème: an undergraduate experiment
2 about sugar crystallization
3 Irem Altan
4 Sugars. Sugar (and its substitutes) in pastries
5
Anne Cazor
6 Sugars. Erythritol-Sucrose-Mixtures out of Equilibrium – Exciting
7 Thermodynamics in the Mouth
8 Hannah M. Hartge, Birgitta Zielbauer, Thomas A. Vilgis
9 Sugars. Intramolecular dehydration of hexoses
10
Marie-Charlotte Belhomme, Stéphanie Castex and Arnaud Haudrechy
11 Taste. Taste and sound
12
Bruno A. Mesz
13 Temporal Domination of Sensation. When building dishes, let’s take
14 temporality into account
15 Pascal Schlich
16 Texture. The physics of mouthfeel: liver sausages and inulin particle gels
17
Thomas A. Vilgis
18 Texture. How texture makes flavour
19
Ole G. Mouritsen
20 Texture. Tsukemono: the art and science of preparing crunchy vegetablesPage 15 of 406
1
Ole G. Mouritsen
2 Thickeners. Cellulose and its derivatives
3
Rachel Edwards-Stuart
4 3D printing of food
5
Megan Ross, Roisin Burke, and Alan L. Kelly
6 Umami. The molecular science of umami synergy
7
8 Part
Ole G. Mouritsen
2 –
APPLICATION TO EDUCATION
9 The right words for improving communication in food science, food
10 technology and between food science and technology and a broader
11 audience
12 Hervé This vo Kientza
13 Experimental flavour workshops
14
Hervé This vo Kientza
15 Teaching argumentation and inquiry through culinary claims.
16
Erik Fooladi
17 Cooking and science workshops: the soft of the world gelling agents
18
Pere Castells
19 Culinary sciences for the enhancement of the public understanding of science
20
Ole G. MouritsenPage 16 of 406
1 “Science and cooking activities” for secondary school students
2 Marie-Claude Feore, Laure Fort, Marie-Blanche Mauhourat, Hervé
3 This vo Kientza
4 How to reduce oil in French fries? A student experiment
5
Hervé This vo Kientza
6 An educational satellite project around the scientific elucidation of culinary
7 precisions in Lebanon and in the Middle East
8 Reine Barbar, Jean-Marie Malbec, Christophe Lavelle and Hervé This
9 Bon Appétit, Marie Curie! A Stanford University Introductory Science of
10 Cooking Course
11 Markus W. Covert and Imanol Arrieta-Ibarra
12 Molecular gastronomy in science education and science communication at the
13 National University of Singapore
14 Linda Sellou and Lau Shi Yun
15 Molecular Gastronomy: A Universal Portal to the Molecular Sciences
16
Patricia B. O’Hara
17 Heat transfer in the kitchen – Exercises
18
Manuel CombesPage 17 of 406
1 Ionic diffusion in spherified calcium alginate gels: a laboratory experiment
2 using molecular diffusion to show that gels are dispersed systems
3 which at the same time behave both as liquids and solids
4 Lorenzo Soprani, Lara Querciagrossa, Silvia Cristofaro, Luca
5 Muccioli, Silvia Orlandi, Elena Strocchi, Alberto Arcioni, Roberto
6 Berardi
7 Simple calculations based on cooking
8
Hervé This vo Kientza
9 Teaching and cooking with culinary teachers
10
Christophe Lavelle
11 The monthly Inrae-AgroParisTech seminars on molecular gastronomy
12
13 Part
Hervé This vo Kientza
3 –
APPLICATION TO CULINARY PRACTICE
14 New Greek cuisine
15
Georgianna Hiliadaki et Nikos Roussos
16 3D Printed Note by Note recipe: soya lobster prototype
17
Róisín Burke
18 Cooking (with) olive oil
19
Christophe Lavelle
20 Cooking for the elderlyPage 18 of 406
1
Christophe Lavelle
2 Culinary constructivism and note by note cooking
3
Pierre Gagnaire
4 Decantation
5
Hervé This vo Kientza
6 Note by note recipes for a press conference organized at ITHQ, 2012
7
Erik Ayala-Bribiesca, Ismael Osorio
8 Using liquid nitrogen to prepare ice creams in the restaurant
9
10
Christophe Lavelle and Hervé This vo Kientza with chefs André
Daguin, Noël Gutrin and Philippe Labbé
11 A Note by Note traditional Chinese dinner created and served in Singapore
12 Kelly Lee, Aaron Wong, Tony Choo, Nicolas Vergnole, Gn Ying Wei,
13 and Tais Berenstein
14 Greek Diracs
15
Makis Kalossakas and Nicolas Nikolakopoulos
16 An eclipse dish
17
Hervé This vo Kientza
18 Modern Swiss cooking
19
Denis Martin
20 How do eggs coagulatePage 19 of 406
1
Hervé This vo Kientza
2 Vegetable salad
3
Jean Chauvel
4 Filtration
5
Hervé This vo Kientza
6 Waiter! There is Garlic in my Meringue!
7
César Vega
8 Lobster and juniper
9
David Toutain
10 Molecular Cooking
11
Róisín Burke and Pauline Danaher
12 Note by note cooking and note by note cuisine
13
Hervé This vo Kientza, Roisin Burke
14 Spherification
15
Sasa Hasic
16 The Raspberry Pear Viennoiserie
17
James A. Griffin
18 Molecular Mixology: Welcome coffee, a cocktail with ten layers
19
Hervé This vo Kientza, Pierre Gagnaire
20 Cube of “chicken-carrot” with chips of “basil-lemon”Page 20 of 406
1
Pasquale Altomonte and Dao Nguyen
2 Some of the easiest Note by Note recipes served at Senses
3
Andrea Camastra
4 The Forest Floor
5
Sophie Dalton
6 A Note by Note Macaron
7
Julien Binz
8 Note by note cooking
9
Michael Pontif
10 Note by note sushis
11
Guillaume Siegler
12 Slowly cooked lamb neck with fermented flour pancakes, sunchoke puree and
13 beer glaze
14 Alex Tsionitis
15

events to come

 

Dear Friends,

1. Happy to have met electronically yesterday so many friends, at our Scientific Lecture for the Publication of the Handbook of Molecular Gastronomy.

2. Thanks for the lecturers

3. Because we got more proposals of talks than slots in the Conference, the four co-editors of the Handbook of Molecular Gastronomy now organize another such event, the 30th of June : don't be shy, send proposal of oral presentations concerning the 3 parts of the book

Part I : science (molecular and physical gastronomy)

Part II : application of molecular and physical gastronomy in education

Part III : application of molecular and physical gastronomy in culinary art

And don't forget: before this new event :

1-3 June : 10th International Workshop on Molecular Gastronomy ; topic "suspensions" (and here again, you can propose to have oral presentation

4th June in the afternoon : Final Event of the 8th and 9th International Contest for Note by Note Cooking.

Have a nice Thursday

Just published

 

Just published in the International Journal of Molecular and Physical Gastronomy :

Vilgis TA. 2021. About the book Molecules, Microbes, and Meals, by Alan Kelly (Oxford University Press, Oxford, UK). 1, 1-3.

 

See http://www2.agroparistech.fr/Vilgis-TA-2021-About-the-book-Molecules-Microbes-and-Meals-by-Alan-Kelly-Oxford.html

Launching Event for the publication of the Handbook of Molecular Gastronomy

 

Happy to announce the final program of the

Launching event for the publication of the Handbook of Molecular Gastronomy

(LE MG Handbook 12 May 2021)

May 12th, 2021

Connect to : https://eu.bbcollab.com/guest/999ba035210a478db00a4c09f61bce5d

The four Editors of the Handbook of Molecular Gastronomy (Roisin Burke, Alan Kelly, Christophe Lavelle, Hervé This vo Kientza) are organizing an online conference, about the book, on the 12th of May (include the time span).

the topics discussed will reflect the 3 parts of the book:

- Molecular and physical gastronomy: scientific aspects

- Education practices of molecular and physical gastronomy

- Applications of molecular and physical gastronomy to culinary art

The Programme is :

14.00-14.30 :

Hervé This : Molecular Gastronomy, Molecular Cooking, Molecular Cuisine, Note by note cooking, Note by note Cuisine

Roisin Burke : The Handbook of Molecular Gastronomy, a huge project

Session 1.

Chair : Alan Kelly

14.30-14.50 : Molecular Gastronomy, Stability of crystallising emulsions, by Thomas Vilgis

14.50-15.10 : Molecular Gastronomy, The Glycation and Maillard Reactions as the  Major Non- Enzymatic Browning Reactions in Food, Frederic Tessier

15.10-15.30 : Molecular Gastronomy, What are Lecithins for the food industry, Elzbieta Kosakiewicz

15.30-15.50 : Molecular Gastronomy, Frying, by Franco Pedreschi

Session 2

Chair : Chistophe Lavelle

16.00-16.20 : Education practices, Teaching Argumentation and Inquiry through Culinary Claims, by Erik Fooladi

16.20-16.50 : Application to culinary art, by Sophie Dalton

16.50 : Questions, Follow up with the IJMPG, etc.

The link for connection will be https://eu.bbcollab.com/guest/999ba035210a478db00a4c09f61bce5d

Molecular Gastronomy in Thailand

Dear Friends

This was received from Witcha Treesuwan, from Katsesart University, Thailand :

On behalf of the Institute of Food Research and Product Development (IFRPD), Kasetsart University, we are very pleased to inform you that IFRPD and Yamamori Group in Thailand. will organize a Workshop on : Molecular Gastronomy and Molecular Cooking on 9th April 2021. The purpose of this workshop aims to sharing information on Molecular Gastronomy among network organization, academia, private companies and interested person.

A scheeni Oschtra, as we say in Alsace (Happy Eastern)

About the sugar effect

I am asked about the "sugar effect", that I demonstrated sometimes during lectures.


I would demonstrate it in this way :

1. observing that water rolls on flour shows that the surface is rather hydrophobic

2. but kneading makes a dough: water goes in the flour through capillarity

3. when you knead, it is stronger and stronger, which shows that something happens (the gluten network formation)

4. but when you lixiviate, then you demonstrate the presence of the "gluten" network (+starch); this is due to protein bridging by water

5. if instead of lixiviating, you add the sugar, then the sucrose traps water and dissolves in it, making a continuous phase (syrup), in which the starch particles are suspended (you move from a D0(S)/D3(S) toward a D0(s)/D3(W) system).

For the "sugar effect",  it is much more efficient when icy sugar is used (because of faster dissolution).

And this is why doughs are more tender with sugar is added in the dough before cooking: instead of having this network, the flour is cemented by butter. 

The new workshop on Molecular Gastronomy

Dear Friends

When spring comes, new words flourish, but indeed, it is perhaps not unnecessary to say clearly that :

1. Sciences of nature (sometimes called natural sciences) are activities where you look for phenomena using the scientific method (observing a phenomenon, measuring it, grouping the data into equations, looking for a theory, trying to refute the theory)

2. Technologies are activities of improving the technique (often using the results of sciences of nature).

3. "Applied sciences" cannot exist : the tree is not the fruit. If it is a science, it is not "applied", and if it is applied, this is technique or technology (and there, whereas applied sciences don't exist, there are applications of sciences)

More focused, now :

4. Food sciences are activities about studying food scientifically.

2. Food technology is the activity of improving food (often using the  result of food sciences)

3. Among food sciences, there are sciences for ingredients (finding new compounds in food ingredients),

4. The science for looking for mechanisms occuring during cooking is called "molecular and physical gastronomy", shortened in "molecular gastronomy".

And this is why I invite you to distribute the announcement of the next "International Workshop on Molecular and Physical Gastronomy", in Paris (France), June  5-7.

The topic will be :  Flavour through Cooking.

application to : icmg@agroparistech.fr