Today, some questions are answered, in view of a trip to Singapore, at then end of June
1. In recent media reports, it was written that “note-by-note” cooking approach can “stave off energy crisis, eliminate food waste and end world hunger”. Can you please explain more about the NbN approach and its potential?
There are two different ideas: note by note cooking, which is a new
way of cooking, and the Note by Note Projects, that include note by
note cooking, but aims are improving the efficiency of our food
production systems.Let's tell the story this way: today, we are 7 billions humans, and
about 1 billion is starving. In 2050, there will be 10 billions, so
that we have to plan methods for feeding everybody.
More or less, the agreement is that spoilage is to be fought, and it
is true tht if 30% of the producted food is spoiled, avoiding this
would improve greatly the efficiency of agriculture.
One way to fight spoilage is to “fractionate” at the farm, which
means separating water, and making proteins, sugars, amino acids,
phenolics, etc.
This would avoid the transportation of fresh products that spoils...
and means transporting water (a truck full of tomatoes means a truck
full of 95 % water!).
Moreover, as the Minister of Argentina for agriculture told me, this
would have the advantage to make prices more even, which is good for
the farmers.
Indeed, In the NbN projects, the farmers will enrich by selling new
products... but they would have to make a small fractionation step at
the farm... with hardware already existing (and cheap).
This being said, the citizens would receive powders (nowadays, you
can already buy tons of proteins from plants)... and they will have
to cook : this is exactly Note by note cooking.
By the way, a very fresh information: recent dinners by chefs in
restaurants showed that NbN dinners cost twice less and need twice
less time to prepare !
Indeed, to tell the truth, in the beginning (1994), I had only the
idea that a more rational way of cooking was possible. But more and
more, it evolved. First, I considered that a new form of culinary
style was possible, and then the many advantages of note by note
cooking appeared.
And finally, I can tell you that, being a Gourmand, I was so happy of
the Note by Note meal that my friend Pierre Gagnaire served to the
New York Times journalist, when they came to Paris to see me about
NbN: I am having meals frequently at Pierre's... but this meal was
the most exciting, because of entirely new flavours !
- Can this approach be applicable to the F&B industry in Asia? If yes, how can this approach be integrated with or adopted to Asian cuisine?
Of course, very easily. And the interesting thing is to see how
different culinary artists will produce different cuisine. Indeed we
can envision “asian NbN cuisine”, or “western NbN cuisine”,
etc. (you see, I make a difference between cooking = technique, and
cuisine=style)
- You are scheduled to give a speech to the graduating culinary and pastry batches at Singapore’s At-Sunrice Global Chef Academy this month. Can you share with us some of the advice that you will impart to these newly graduated chefs?
Of course, the main ideas are work, loyalty, kindness, care,
boldness... But I know that I shall have to explain that cooking is
first love, then art and finally technique.
The technical component of cooking is important, for sure, but it is
not difficult... if you accept to detach from tradition (I am not
saying that tradition is useless or bad, but I say that tradition is
the sum of the successes and advances of the past ; our Great
Ancestors would be angry if they saw that we did not contribute to
the advancement of culinary art).
But the question of art is most important. It is not difficult and it
is not important to grill meat or boil vegetables, but rather the
issue is to determine how to do it and why.
Indeed I realize more and more that one main issue around is that the
goals are not clear, and it has to be very clear ! Indeed, imagine
that you are in Paris ; if you don't understand clearly that your
goal is Singapore, you will perhaps arrive in Hong Kong, or Tokyo,
but not in Singapore. And it's only when the goal is clear that you
can determine the way to reach it. In Greek, the way is “methodon”,
method. Yes, when you have the goal, you can try to find the way, and
this is “strategy”. And they you can implement, and this is
tactic.
Coming back to hard “work”, or to innovation, creativity, etc. ,
the idea lies in this sentence: “Il faut tendre avec efforts vers
l'infaillibilité sans y prétendre”.
And by the way, if I have time, I shall tell them the wonderful story
of Michael Faraday. As an orphan, he was going once per week, in the
evening, in “Improvement of the mind” sessions... and he became
the one of the greatest physical chemists of all times.
But I know that I shall also have to make it very clear to explain
the difference between Molecular gastronomy, molecular cooking,
mocular cuisine, and note by note cooking/cuisine.
By the way, I would be very happy if I could stimulate the creation
of a laboratory for molecular gastronomy in a chemistry department of
Singapore
- How do you see the future of food preparation? Do you think that chefs in Asia should create more molecular gastronomy offerings in their menu?
Indeed you confluse (sorry to tell you that) molecular gastronomy
and cooking.
Molecular gastronomy is one science of nature, as physics, chemistry,
biology. It is for scientists, not for chefs. Molecular gastronomy
cannot be in a menu.
Molecular cuisine, instead, is cooking, for chefs, not for
scientists... but this is 35 years old... and this is why we should
move fast toward Nbn (like jazz is 50 years old, and new music can be
introduced).
The future of food preparation : certainly NbN for the reason given
above about 10 billions people on the earth.
Finally “should” Asian chefs offer more molecular cuisine: no,
because molecular cuisine is old.
“Should” chef offer NbN ? If they want. The question is art : an
artist does what he/she perceives, feels...
But it's true that if a chef serves NbN, this is NEW, and only the
new can attract journalists... and guests.
- What do you think chefs in Asia should do to get more diners to try molecular gastronomy offerings?
Again : confusion between molecular gastronomy (science), on one
hand, and cooking, on the other hand. But I don't see the difference
between this question and the previous ?
- What are your future plans concerning NbN approach and molecular gastronomy? Will you be participating in more events here in the region in connection with promoting these culinary disciplines?
For
molecular gastronomy, I am doing efforts to spread this science all
over the world... and it works well. More and more, in science and
technology universities, laboratories for molecular gastronoy are
created.
For
NbN : for sure, we have to be ready in 2050, and I am promoting all
over the world this new way of cooking, with about 1 new countrie per
two months. Right now, I am considering how to change the
International Contest for Note by Note Cooking (we do tomorrow the
6th).
More
events in Asia? Why not, if people in Asia are interested.
(but
remember: molecular gastronomy is not a culinary discipline, it's
science ;-) ).
