Guidance

I get a message asking me about guidance. 

And here is my answer :

In order to answer the question properly, I need to start by explaining things clearly:
1. first of all I propose to make a distinction between
- technology,
- technology
- science (of nature)

2. secondly, I propose to make a clear distinction between molecular and physical gastronomy (on more simply molecular gastronomy = science), on the one hand, and molecular cooking or cuisine on the other hand (technique) ; without forgetting synthetic that I also invented, also with the name note-by-note cuisine (also technique).

Indeed, if you have our Handbook of MG, this is said in the introduction.

By the way, as far as "sciences" are concerned, I am going to talk about them now by implying "sciences of nature", and not sciences of the human or of society.

Let us begin by returning to the first of the two distinctions: culinary activity is a technical activity that certainly has an artistic and a social component; but producing a dish is a technical gesture.

This is therefore very different from a scientific activity, in the sense of the natural sciences, which must use the "scientific method" to explore the mechanisms of phenomena.
I add without waiting that the natural sciences are not concerned by applications, especially technical applications.

In the middle, between technique and science, there is technology, the work of the engineer, who uses the results of the natural sciences to improve the technique. In English, we sometimes speak of technology and sometimes of engineering.

To arrive at the second distinction now, there is  :
- Molecular gastronomy, whose real name is molecular  and physical gastronomy, and which is science (physics, chemistry, biology...), without taking care of applications, only exploring the mechanisms of phenomena.
- Molecular cooking/cuisine is a technique: it is cooking renovated by the contributions of molecular gastronomy or by the introduction of materials from laboratories.
- these two (molecular gastronomy, on the one hand, and molecular cooking, on the other hand) differ from synthetic cooking, or note-by-note cooking, for which the question is no longer that of materials but of ingredients: instead of cooking with carrots, turnips, meat or fish, one uses pure compounds and builds dishes.

 

 

All that being said, I can now answer the email in details, and I  take it sentence by sentence

First, you tell me that you are a student "looking for a space in the vast research field of molecular gastronomy": if the term molecular gastronomy is used in your sentence, then it means that you would like to do scientific research.

You add that your background is not in cooking but in science and indeed, to do molecular gastronomy, you need to have a scientific background and certainly not a culinary, technical background.

Then you tell me that for the last 10 years you have been interested in coffee, as a consultant about fermentation methods for example: this is an exciting work; a technological work for sure, not scientific, but very interesting... and I take the opportunity to point out that in my laboratory, there was a thesis on coffee roasting: the PhD candidate, because she was heading towards the industry... and me because the preparation of coffee is accompanied by many phenomena that I wanted to explore.

Then you tell me that food and cooking are one of your passions and you tell me again that you imagine a transition to molecular gastronomy, and you ask me whether it is too late when you are 30 years old:  you might be interested to know that until I was 50, I had two lives, one in science publishing, and the other in the laboratory; I gave up science publishing at age 50 to go full time to do science in the laboratory, which I loved above all else.

By the way, I should add that even though I invent a lot of things, I do it in spite of myself, and I'm not proud of it. More exactly, if I were to be proud of something, it would only be my discoveries, and not my inventions.
Besides, for me, cooking is only a kind of pretext: it is in cooking that we see phenomena that we explore scientifically afterwards. And there is no technology involved.

I also want to point out that it is in the food industry in the broad sense that there are both jobs and decent salaries.
I understand that in your country, many of my colleagues are doing both research, which is more technological, and teaching, as well, than scientific research.

And I refer you to one of my blog posts that shows how constant the confusion is: https://hervethis.blogspot.com/2018/09/la-science-des-aliments-nest-pas-la.html
In fact, a lot of what is called food science is actually food technology and not food science.
It is interesting to observe, for example, that there are hundreds or even thousands of articles devoted to tea or coffee, but an excessively small number (if any) are concerned with the mechanism of the phenomena, i.e., the science.
The majority of the articles are interested in the composition of tea or coffee, in the ingredients, in the processes, but not in the science.

Then you mention an intention to collaborate with a starred restaurant: obviously, it will be about technology or technique and not science unless it is about communicating new, scientific information, in which case it will be about training or teaching but still not science.

By the way, one of the PhD in my lab created a company for selling consultancy (at that time, in molecular cooking), and this looks like what you intend to do. Her education in molecular gastronomy was very useful for her to do this job.

You tell me that this restaurant wants to create a "research" and "innovation" group: I warn you against using the word "research" because one can do scientific research or technological research... or artistic research; it is always research but it is not always science (= scientific research).
In short, the word research is not synonymous with science, and in any case, if the creation of such a center is at stake, then it is obviously technology or artistic research that is involved.


And here I have done the best I can. I hope that this was useful 

kind regards

Some questions from Greece

When was Molecular gastronomy first applied in the kitchen? 

 

The question needs rephrasing, because there are two options :

1. when was molecular gastronomy done for the first time?

2. when was is "applied", i.e. when were the results of MG used in the kitchen?

And the answer is simple :

1. MG was done for the first time when it was named, i.e., in 1988, by me  and Nicholas Kurti.

This does not mean that we did not make anything before, on the contrary, but before the name was officially given, it was a "prehistory". And here, the prehistory began a long time ago, because the pharmacist Geoffroy, in the early 18th century, was already studying the chemistry of meat stock, for example.

By the way, forget Brillat-Savarin, because he was not a scientist, but a lawyer. And all what he writes is fiction, like in a novel. Even the osmazome has nothing to do with the real osmazome, a concept and a name given by the French chemist Jacques Thenard (an ethanol extract of meat).

Brillat-Savarin never studied cooking: he wrote a book. And he did not know anything about chemistry.

2. About application: indeed because the application of sciences is not science, but technology, I gave the name "molecular cooking" to this modern way of cooking, which is to use hardware from laboratories (chemistry) to cook. I promoted that since 1980, but I gave the name itself only in 1999, because there was much confusion between cooking and sciences (of nature), in particular between cooking and molecular gastronomy.

Questions and answers

Today, some questions are answered, in view of a trip to Singapore, at then end of June


1. In recent media reports, it was written that “note-by-note” cooking approach can “stave off energy crisis, eliminate food waste and end world hunger”. Can you please explain more about the NbN approach and its potential?

There are two different ideas: note by note cooking, which is a new way of cooking, and the Note by Note Projects, that include note by note cooking, but aims are improving the efficiency of our food production systems.Let's tell the story this way: today, we are 7 billions humans, and about 1 billion is starving. In 2050, there will be 10 billions, so that we have to plan methods for feeding everybody.

More or less, the agreement is that spoilage is to be fought, and it is true tht if 30% of the producted food is spoiled, avoiding this would improve greatly the efficiency of agriculture.

One way to fight spoilage is to “fractionate” at the farm, which means separating water, and making proteins, sugars, amino acids, phenolics, etc.

This would avoid the transportation of fresh products that spoils... and means transporting water (a truck full of tomatoes means a truck full of 95 % water!).

Moreover, as the Minister of Argentina for agriculture told me, this would have the advantage to make prices more even, which is good for the farmers.

Indeed, In the NbN projects, the farmers will enrich by selling new products... but they would have to make a small fractionation step at the farm... with hardware already existing (and cheap).

This being said, the citizens would receive powders (nowadays, you can already buy tons of proteins from plants)... and they will have to cook : this is exactly Note by note cooking.

By the way, a very fresh information: recent dinners by chefs in restaurants showed that NbN dinners cost twice less and need twice less time to prepare !

2. What made you decide to explore (and promote) NbN to the F&B industry?

Indeed, to tell the truth, in the beginning (1994), I had only the idea that a more rational way of cooking was possible. But more and more, it evolved. First, I considered that a new form of culinary style was possible, and then the many advantages of note by note cooking appeared.

And finally, I can tell you that, being a Gourmand, I was so happy of the Note by Note meal that my friend Pierre Gagnaire served to the New York Times journalist, when they came to Paris to see me about NbN: I am having meals frequently at Pierre's... but this meal was the most exciting, because of entirely new flavours !

3. Can this approach be applicable to the F&B industry in Asia? If yes, how can this approach be integrated with or adopted to Asian cuisine?

Of course, very easily. And the interesting thing is to see how different culinary artists will produce different cuisine. Indeed we can envision “asian NbN cuisine”, or “western NbN cuisine”, etc. (you see, I make a difference between cooking = technique, and cuisine=style)

4. You are scheduled to give a speech to the graduating culinary and pastry batches at Singapore’s At-Sunrice Global Chef Academy this month. Can you share with us some of the advice that you will impart to these newly graduated chefs?

Of course, the main ideas are work, loyalty, kindness, care, boldness... But I know that I shall have to explain that cooking is first love, then art and finally technique.

The technical component of cooking is important, for sure, but it is not difficult... if you accept to detach from tradition (I am not saying that tradition is useless or bad, but I say that tradition is the sum of the successes and advances of the past ; our Great Ancestors would be angry if they saw that we did not contribute to the advancement of culinary art).

But the question of art is most important. It is not difficult and it is not important to grill meat or boil vegetables, but rather the issue is to determine how to do it and why.

Indeed I realize more and more that one main issue around is that the goals are not clear, and it has to be very clear ! Indeed, imagine that you are in Paris ; if you don't understand clearly that your goal is Singapore, you will perhaps arrive in Hong Kong, or Tokyo, but not in Singapore. And it's only when the goal is clear that you can determine the way to reach it. In Greek, the way is “methodon”, method. Yes, when you have the goal, you can try to find the way, and this is “strategy”. And they you can implement, and this is tactic.

Coming back to hard “work”, or to innovation, creativity, etc. , the idea lies in this sentence: “Il faut tendre avec efforts vers l'infaillibilité sans y prétendre”.

And by the way, if I have time, I shall tell them the wonderful story of Michael Faraday. As an orphan, he was going once per week, in the evening, in “Improvement of the mind” sessions... and he became the one of the greatest physical chemists of all times.

But I know that I shall also have to make it very clear to explain the difference between Molecular gastronomy, molecular cooking, mocular cuisine, and note by note cooking/cuisine.

By the way, I would be very happy if I could stimulate the creation of a laboratory for molecular gastronomy in a chemistry department of Singapore

5. How do you see the future of food preparation? Do you think that chefs in Asia should create more molecular gastronomy offerings in their menu?

Indeed you confluse (sorry to tell you that) molecular gastronomy and cooking.

Molecular gastronomy is one science of nature, as physics, chemistry, biology. It is for scientists, not for chefs. Molecular gastronomy cannot be in a menu.

Molecular cuisine, instead, is cooking, for chefs, not for scientists... but this is 35 years old... and this is why we should move fast toward Nbn (like jazz is 50 years old, and new music can be introduced).

The future of food preparation : certainly NbN for the reason given above about 10 billions people on the earth.

Finally “should” Asian chefs offer more molecular cuisine: no, because molecular cuisine is old.

“Should” chef offer NbN ? If they want. The question is art : an artist does what he/she perceives, feels...

But it's true that if a chef serves NbN, this is NEW, and only the new can attract journalists... and guests.

6. What do you think chefs in Asia should do to get more diners to try molecular gastronomy offerings?

Again : confusion between molecular gastronomy (science), on one hand, and cooking, on the other hand. But I don't see the difference between this question and the previous ?

7. What are your future plans concerning NbN approach and molecular gastronomy? Will you be participating in more events here in the region in connection with promoting these culinary disciplines?

For molecular gastronomy, I am doing efforts to spread this science all over the world... and it works well. More and more, in science and technology universities, laboratories for molecular gastronoy are created.

For NbN : for sure, we have to be ready in 2050, and I am promoting all over the world this new way of cooking, with about 1 new countrie per two months. Right now, I am considering how to change the International Contest for Note by Note Cooking (we do tomorrow the 6^th).

More events in Asia? Why not, if people in Asia are interested.

(but remember: molecular gastronomy is not a culinary discipline, it's science ;-) ).

Answers to questions

This morning, an email that I have to answer !


Dear Hervé This,
Hi, my name is xxxxx xxxxx, and I am 11 years old, and in 5th grade in the U.S. In my school district, as an end of elementary school project, all of 5th grade is doing a project called xxxxxx. For xxxxx, students are allowed to pick any topic of choice to study and create a presentation on; to present to younger grades. My topic of choice is molecular gastronomy. I chose this topic since it seemed really interesting to me and I wanted to learn about it. One of the requirements for xxxxxx is; after researching your topic, you need to interview an expert on your topic of choice (in this case for me it’s molecular gastronomy), and I thought there would be no better person to interview other than you!
    I was wondering if I could ask you a list of questions for my project? If so, here they are:
    How did you come up with the idea of molecular gastronomy?
    What do you think is the purpose of molecular gastronomy?
    Why has molecular gastronomy become so popular?
    What is your favorite part about making molecular gastronomy?
    Has molecular gastronomy impacted your life in any way? If so, how?
Also, do you recommend any books or articles I could read (in English) to find out more about molecular gastronomy? If so, it would be great if you could send me some sources of information, as well as the answers to my questions.
Thank you for taking your time to read this, and I hope you can get back to be soon.

Here are my answers: 

How did you come up with the idea of molecular gastronomy?








The answer was given many times, and in particular on my internet site https://sites.google.com/site/travauxdehervethis/. 
Go to "questions and answers" : https://sites.google.com/site/travauxdehervethis/Home/et-plus-encore/pour-en-savoir-plus/questions-and-answers
Indeed all began because I was cooking a cheese soufflé the 16th of March 1980 : the recipe was advising to add the yolks two by two... and I realized at that time that this was non sense... and I decided to collect such "culinary precisions" in order to test them experimentally. This led to the creation of molecular gastronomy, but also to molecular cooking, molecular cuisine, and more recently to note by note cooking (have a look on this !)

What do you think is the purpose of molecular gastronomy?The purpose is very clear and simple, and it is given by the definition of molecular gastronomy: it is looking for the mechanisms of phenomena occurring during culinary professes.

In other words, when one cooks (i.e. makes a dish), there are transformations : expansion, browning, sizzling, water evaporation, odor appearing, taste changing... and all these are phenomena. Being a scientific discipline, molecular gastronomy is trying to understand why and how these phenomena occur.
And because molecular gastronomy is a scientific activity (contrary to molecular cuisine or molecular cooking, or note by note cooking), the method for looking for the mechanisms is :
1. identify clearly the phenomenon that you want to study
2. characterize it quantitatively (you "measure")
3. make "laws" (i.e. equations from data of measurements)
4. find mechanisms (theory)
5. look for a testable consequence of the theory
6. test this consequence experimentally
and over and over.

Why has molecular gastronomy become so popular?For many reasons, but in particular because there was a confusion between cooking and science.
For molecular cooking, the success was certain, because it was obvious that a modernization of culinary activities was needed. Oh, yes, I have to tell you the definition of molecular cooking: cooking using modern tools coming from chemistry labs (such as thermocirculators, etc.).
After 1992, some chefs began using the tools that I was proposing since 1980, and the became famous... because the dishes that they were producing were new. And for any new activity, the journalists are willing to advertize it, so that molecular cooking developped rapidly.
At the same time, because populations had enough to eat, media began developing programs such as top chef, iron chef, etc. And molecular cooking became very popular.
Since the beginning, there was in the public a confusion between molecular cooking and molecular gastronomy... but molecular gastronomy developped as well... for many reasons, and in particular because it was helpful for education: students were more willing to study science when linked with such as a wonderful activity as cooking.
Also, and I should have said this first, molecular gastronomy introduced many new scientific ideas (DSF, dynagels, etc.).
 

What is your favorite part about making molecular gastronomy?
I don't know: I love maths, but I love also well done experiments.

Has molecular gastronomy impacted your life in any way? If so, how?
Tremendously. Indeed it is my life. I work with passion at the lab, but I also lecture all over the world. How could I say...

Also, do you recommend any books or articles I could read (in English) to find out more about molecular gastronomy? If so, it would be great if you could send me some sources of information, as well as the answers to my questions.
I published many books in English (Molecular Gastronomy, Building a Meal, Note by Note Cooking, Cooking, a quintessential art), and even more in French, and there hundreds of podcasts on the AgroParis Tech site : http://www2.agroparistech.fr/podcast/ 
But there are also on line courses, both in English https://tice.agroparistech.fr/coursenligne/main/document/document.php?cidReq=FIPDESMOLECULARGASTR or in French

Indeed, don't miss the next Note by Note Contest !