Le 13e concours international de cuisine note à note : un succès !

La finale du 13e concours de cuisine note à note s'est tenue vendredi 5 septembre 2023 sur le campus Agro Paris Saclay à Palaiseau. Il y avait une quarantaine de concurrents souvent d'ailleurs des étudiants du Master Food Innovation and Product Design, ou ceux d'un masters en "culinary arts" en Irlande. 

On rappelle que la cuisine note à note est ce style de cuisine qui dérive de la cuisine de synthèse, pour laquelle les ingrédients ne sont plus des viandes, des poissons, des légumes ou des fruits, mais les composés de tous ces ingrédients à savoir de l'eau, des triglycérides, des protéines, des acides aminés, des composés odorants, des composés sapides tels qu'acides aminés, acides organiques, sels minéraux, etc. 

Le thème qui avait été proposé était Food for the Future, et beaucoup des concurrents se sont engagés dans la voie d'une cuisine pour l'espace ou bien une cuisine sans déchets... 

Le niveau technique a considérablement augmenté depuis les premières éditions de ce concours pour lesquelles nos partenaires réguliers étaient présents : la société Louis-François, qui vend des composés permettant de réaliser des consistances, mais aussi des composés sapides, et la société Kitchen Lab Food, qui vend des composés odorants. 

Six candidats pré-sélectionnés sont venus montrer la recette qu'ils avaient mise au point. Le gagnant a proposé une recette pour les personnes affligées de dysphagie. Pour un autre, il s'agissait d'un dessert allégé en calories par rapport au même dessert qui aurait été réalisé de façon classique. Une troisième concurrente a fait proposition plus poétique, de fleurs mangeables avec des goûts variés. Un des deux gagnants, pour la catégorie grand public, a fait une extraordinaire composition futuriste. 

Le jury était composé de Jean-Pierre Lepeltier, chef de l'International club toques blanches, de Guillaume Ziegler, de l'Institut Cordon bleu à Paris, de Kelly Tea, de la société Louis François, de Roisin Burke, organisatrice, de Pasquale Altomonte et Dao Nguyen, de la société Kitchen Lab Food, de Patrick Terrien, de l'Académie culinaire de France. 

Des critères avaient été affichés, à savoir être le plus proche possible de la cuisine note à note, ce qui signifie utiliser des composés aussi purs que possible et non pas des mélanges, privilégier le goût, respecter le thème, pouvoir être reproduit. 

Les discussions du jury ont été chaudes : il a fallu un très long moment avant qu'il n'arrive à départager les concurrents, se résolvant finalement à mettre deux d'entre eux ex aequo en deuxième classe de la catégorie étudiant. 

Cette nouvelle édition du concours a été largement suivi e, soit en présentiel soit en visioconférence, et bien que j'ai été entièrement absorbé dans l'organisation, j'ai vu sur le coin de l'écran un très grand nombre de personnes connectées dans de nombreux pays : Portugal, Irlande, États-Unis, Australie... 

On retrouvera la finale filmée à l'adresse suivante  : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBlzO2SUutA&feature=youtu.be

Et tout sur le concours ici :  https://icmpg.hub.inrae.fr/international-activities-of-the-international-centre-of-molecular-gastronomy/synthetic-cooking-note-by-note-cuisine/international-contests-for-note-by-note-cuisine/cnan-13-future-food/cnan-13-future-food

 Et on se préparera sans tarder à participer au prochain concours dont la finale se tiendra dans un an et qui a pour thème 

Reduce production costs, reduce calories, but mind the flavour (extra points willbe given to competitors that will be able to make the dish for the jury in ten minutes during the finals, live or video ; please avoid generalities about note by note, and focus on the dish that you submit to the contest).

Flavour and flavourings

 
During the final of the last note to note cooking contest, I saw the confusion between flavour and flavouring.

They are not at all the same thing, because the first word refers to taste, while the second applies to preparations used to give taste.
When we eat a banana, we taste a banana, but when we add to a yogurt a product that gives a strawberry taste, it is a flavouring agent that is used, and that formulates sapid, odorous compounds, with trigeminal action, etc. In short, preparations that give taste to what is added.

In English, the word flavouring is quite different from the word flavour. And our English-speaking friends have an advantage over the French... when they do not confuse everything. Because in French, there is still too often a confusion between an aroma and a flavour, so to speak.

From time immemorial, the aroma is the smell of an aromatic plant, of an aromatic plant.

And this is the reason why there is no aroma for a meat, or for a wine, because neither a meat nor a wine are aromatic plants.

There is a smell, when you smell the meat, or a retronasal smell when you chew it. But most of the time the eaters are not analytical, and they only perceive a "taste", a synthetic sensation that includes the smell, the retronasal odor, the consistency, etc.

And we call flavourings the preparations, sometimes wonderful, that we use to give taste to a dish.
For example, there are vanilla flavourings in every supermarket, strawberry flavourings added to yoghurts, for example.

And we must add that, for these products that are flavourings, there are good and bad ones: it is often a question of money, because the talent of the "formulators" is paid for, and the more complicated reproductions are often better judged. If you don't put a lot of money into it, then you often get a poor quality product.

Iberian Ham

In a recent cooking competition note to note, some candidates included in their dish a preparation that they named "Iberian ham".

I will not go back to the question of the reproduction of traditional, classic ingredients or dishes, but I propose that we be astonished to see so named... what was not Iberian ham, but a kind of copy, a reproduction of such a product: the name was usurped, and I do not believe that it is "fair", in the sense of the regulation of the food trade.

And then, why make something new by naming it like something old? The innovation is hidden, instead of being highlighted.

But, in reality, this post is more about sharing an astonishment: the composition of the preparations that were proposed by the candidates who made these "copies of Iberian ham" were actually so different... that it was very difficult to recognize Iberian ham.

For me, and for many people with whom I discussed the question, Iberian ham is served in very thin slices: there is even this Spanish ceremony which consists in putting the ham horizontally, on a support, and using a long knife, to make well-sliced strips.

But, above all, this ham is a beautiful, alternating red and white areas. In the red areas, my friends who have studied this product know that the proteins have been partially hydrolyzed and have released amino acids and peptides, among other things, so that these parts have a lot of flavor. In the white areas, it is fat, and here again, the long evolution of the ham, its maturation have led to the formation of odorant compounds.
Finally, the Iberian ham is characterized by this alternation of areas of different consistencies and different tastes, and in any case powerful.

But we must not forget that there is a lot of fat in total and that this marbling is essential for the quality of Iberian ham.

But in the realisations that were submitted to me, there was no fat!
I must admit that I was a bit shocked and disappointed. Am I old-fashioned? Biased? I know that some members of the jury spontaneously made the same analysis as I did, so it is not idiosyncratic.

And here I am expressing my incomprehension/why did the competitors claim to be making a reproduction of Iberian ham when their preparation did not contain the fat that is almost the hallmark of this ham?